What to Look for When Buying a Vintage Furby

A collector’s checklist for avoiding bad listings and spotting worth restoring — from someone who restores Furbys every week.

1. Start With Condition Photos

Only buy Furbys with clear, honest photos of fur, face, antenna base, back/baseplate, and teeth. Yellowed or stained fur is not necessarily bad, but sellers should show it. Hidden damage costs more to repair later.

2. Test the Sensors

A functioning Furby should react to:

If the seller can’t demonstrate these, you are guessing.

3. Inspect Plastic and Fur

Cracks near the ears, antenna base, or base screw posts are expensive to fix. Fur matting can sometimes be combed out; fur staining can sometimes be re-dyed. Decide your threshold before you pay.

4. Ask About Batteries

Most vintage Furbys need fresh batteries to show true behavior. If a Furby passed all tests, great. If it just blinked once, that is not enough proof of functionality.

5. Check the Base and Wiring

Ask whether the seller opened the base. Corrosion, old battery leakage, detatched ribbons, and broken switches turn small purchases into expensive projects. Restoration is a craft, but not every diamond in the rough is worth polishing.

6. Authenicity and Parts Swapping

Mixed-generation Furbys do exist: a 1998 Furby with 1999 parts, mismatched eyes, or undocumented modifications reduce collector value. Ask questions. Responsible sellers will answer honestly.

7. Pricing and Rarity

Common 1998–1999 Furbys in used condition usually sell for modest prices. Special editions, unopened boxed units, and rare colorways can cost more. Functionality and completeness usually matter more than age alone.

8. When to Walk Away

Buying blind, wiring damage, hidden battery leaks, or suspiciously low starting bids with no test evidence are signs to wait. In vintage toys, patience usually pays better than impulse.

9. Furbtorial Buying Checklist

From actual restoration videos, these are the exact things I inspect before buying a project unit:

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